Short answer: Yes, a 4 inch angle grinder cuts brick and pavers well. Fit a segmented diamond blade, score the line about a quarter inch deep, deepen it in two or three passes, then either cut through from both sides or snap the piece along the score. Expect about an inch of cutting depth, and treat the dust as the real hazard.
Which blade cuts brick and pavers?
A segmented diamond blade. The slots in the rim let heat escape and clear the grit that would otherwise pack into the cut, which is what dense, abrasive masonry demands. A continuous rim blade meant for tile glazes over quickly in brick, and an abrasive masonry wheel works but shrinks with every cut.
That is what the Indestructible Disc 3.0, the concrete and stone cutting disc is built around: a segmented rim on a diamond steel body, 4 inch (100 mm) diameter, 5/8 inch (16 mm) arbor, rated to 12,225 RPM. It cuts dry or wet, and it keeps its diameter, so the last paver cuts as fast as the first. If you are choosing between rim types, Diamond Blade for an Angle Grinder explains the difference. For slabs, score lines and thicker concrete, see How to Cut Concrete With an Angle Grinder.
How deep can a 4 inch grinder cut?
About an inch, once the arbor, flange and guard are accounted for. Know that number before you start, because it changes the method.
- Thin pavers and brick faces: cut straight through.
- Standard pavers, around two and a half inches thick: score both faces and snap, or cut from both sides so the two cuts meet.
- Full blocks and thick slabs: score deep and split with a chisel, or rent a saw. Forcing a small grinder deeper buries the guard and binds the blade.
How do you cut a paver, step by step?
- Mark the line on both faces with a pencil or chalk. Freehand wanders.
- Set the paver on sand or a scrap board, flat and stable, with the offcut supported so it cannot drop and pinch the blade.
- Fit the guard and your gear: safety glasses, a fitted respirator, ear protection, gloves.
- Let the blade reach full speed, then score a shallow pass about a quarter inch deep along the line. This gives the blade a track and stops it skating across the surface.
- Deepen in two or three passes. Light pressure, blade square to the surface, keep it moving. One heavy pass overheats the rim and stalls the tool.
- Flip and repeat on the other face until the cuts meet, or score a quarter inch on both faces and snap the paver over an edge with a sharp tap of a hammer and chisel on the line.
- Dress the edge with a light pass of the blade or a rubbing stone if the snap left a lip.
How do I cut a curve or an angle?
Angles are just a straight line drawn at an angle: mark with a speed square, score and cut as above.
Curves cannot be steered with a grinder without twisting the blade, which is how discs break. Mark the arc, then make a series of short straight cuts that follow it, nibbling away the waste in wedges. Finish the curve by grinding the high points with the edge of the blade at a shallow angle. For a border along a round bed, a cardboard template of the arc saves a lot of trial cuts.
Wet or dry?
Dry cutting is quick to set up and fine outdoors in short bursts. Let the blade spin free for a few seconds between cuts to cool.
Wet cutting is cooler, cleaner and better for the blade. A helper with a garden hose on a trickle, or a spray bottle for a few cuts, is enough. Keep water away from the motor and use a GFCI outlet.
Why is the dust the real problem?
Brick, concrete and pavers are full of crystalline silica. Breathing the dust causes silicosis, and the damage is permanent and adds up cut by cut. It does not hurt at the time, which is why people ignore it.
- Cut wet whenever you can. It is the single most effective control.
- Wear a fitted N95 or P100 respirator, not a bandana.
- Work outdoors, upwind of the cut, and keep other people out of the cloud.
- Never dry cut masonry indoors without extraction on the tool.
Can I cut brick that is already in a wall?
Yes, carefully. Cut the mortar joints first, they are softer and give you a clean release. Plunge cuts into a wall bury the guard quickly, so keep the depth shallow, both hands on the tool, and stand out of the plane of the blade. Check for pipes and wiring behind the wall before you start.
What goes wrong most often?
- No scoring pass. The blade skates and the cut wanders.
- Forcing depth. Overheats the rim, glazes the diamonds, stalls the motor.
- Unsupported offcut. The piece drops, the cut closes and the blade binds. That is where kickback comes from.
- Dry cutting indoors. See above. There is no cut worth it.
The short version
Segmented blade, mark both faces, score a quarter inch, deepen in passes, snap or meet from both sides. Cut wet if you can, wear a real respirator if you cannot.
Get the disc built for brick, pavers and stone: Indestructible Disc 3.0, the concrete and stone cutting disc for angle grinders
